Tierra del Viento

The Land of the Wind, which becomes ever more relentless as we travel further South. Just how we came to spend Christmas day travelling backward and forward between bleak and lonely border posts, only to finish up the evening with a supper of half a cup of wine and an apple will have to wait until I can compose myself enough to relate. After this feast we settled down to an uncomfortable night on the bus, listening to each rock bouncing up from the unmade road and wondering which one would finally cause us to experience the break-down from hell in the middle of nowhere.

I awoke six hours later, somewhere in the Santa Cruz region (of Argentina) to a magnificent rosy dawn but soon disturbed Grahame with a cry of disappointment as I glimpsed a flamingo flashing past on the other side of the bus. Its pink and black wings were lit up by the early morning light, making it burn like Stravinski’s Firebird or one of the “flaming gulls” of my nephew’s imagination. Yes, there are flamingos down here, even though we are at the same latitude as the Valdez Peninsula, more famed for its penguins and migrating whales. The choking sob that I emitted was only commensurate with the lack of availability of my camera but I’m sure it was disconcerting to my sleeping companion nonetheless.

Such pictures as I do have will make for splendid viewing in due course.


Categories: Latin America


  • Grace says:

    Happy Christmas Mum,

    I’ve sent pictures of the girls. I hope you can see them.


  • Nicola says:

    Yes, thanks,

    They are gorgeous! What am I doing here?

    love to you all,


  • Chris says:

    Poor delusional Argentines

  • Nicola says:

    I have not had the opportunity to discuss the Malvinas or Falkland Islands with anyone down here, although perhaps it is just as well. One border guard did proudly point out a poster of El Papa del Fin del Mundo (the Pope of the End of the World) as they proudly refer to Pope Francis down here Apparently, he was instrumental in reaching a peace settlement with Chile in one of Argentina’s interminable border wars but, since the disputed Islands in the Magellen Strait all ended up going to the other side on that occasion, I doubt he will be particularly keen to take sides in the Falklands cause. The Argentinian economy is in something of a mess and so a bit of sabre rattling serves as a convenient distraction from time to time.

Leave a Reply