Karnataka, Voyage of Discovery II

The state of Karnataka only came into existence after Independence. Before that the land of the Kannada speakers fell under the sway of one pan-Deccan Empire or another as fortunes … Continue Reading →


Karnataka, Voyage of Discovery

Our journey up the spine of the Deccan state of Karnataka from Mysore to Bijapur turned into something of a thrill ride backwards and forwards through its history as we … Continue Reading →


Hampi, Hippy Heaven

This is one of the most important archaeological sites in India. From the 14th to the 16th centuries it was an immense city of half a million people, second in … Continue Reading →


Mysore, the Garden City

The night train to Bangalore left on time and I had a lower berth with good access to the (exceptionally clean) toilets, which was about all I was capable of … Continue Reading →


Golconda, Prize of Southern India

The great hilltop fort at Golkonda dates back 800 years and plays such an important role in the history of Southern India that I didn’t feel I could miss it, … Continue Reading →


Hyderabad, City of Diamonds

If this account (written subsequently) is a little light on historical detail and a little heavy on trivia, then we must blame the fact that my challenging itinerary finally caught … Continue Reading →


Night Train from Bhopal

I’m afraid it was with a certain amount of relief that I climbed aboard the 12708 1800h, The Ap Sampark Kranti or “Pilgrim’s Special” leaving the city of Bhopal and … Continue Reading →


Sanchi and the Jewels of Madhya Pradesh

I came in on the 12002, 1051h Shatabdi Express from Jhansi, a chair seat with lunch provided. My hotel room next to Bhopal Junction station was basic but comfortable and … Continue Reading →


Orchha, the Hidden City

I rose early and was able to get my early morning views of the remaining Khajuharo temples before setting of, by road this time, for my next destination. The journey … Continue Reading →


Khajuharo, Chronicle of Desire

The 21108, 2225h Khajuraho Link Express was late. Very late and getting later due to thick fog which, as the announcements cheerfully informed me, had reduced all trains to half … Continue Reading →