02 Champenar featured

Champaner, World Heritage Site of Gujarat

Look, I managed to get out to this magnificent archaeological site today by resisting all the chaotic, last minute shopping and socialising, getting up at 5am and disappearing in a … Continue Reading →


03 Kerala backwater featured

Back to the Backwaters

Before leaving Kerala we had a wonderful, overnight excursion on one of the Alleppey converted riceboats. A fuller explanation will follow. As we drove down from the hill country on … Continue Reading →


02 Thekkardy featured

Trouble in Thekkady

It’s not a coincidence that the featured picture for this post should show my hand held in the grip of a green-faced Katakala demon as shortly after this picture was … Continue Reading →


01 Munar featured

God’s Own Country (Kerala)

Another balcony and another mountain view but as I’m travelling with the two “aunties” just chai to drink this time. The mountains are the cloud soaked, rounded green hills of … Continue Reading →


01 Jamnagar featured

Wedding in Jamnagar (Western Gujarat)

It’s 46 degrees here. Gimme a break! All right, I’ve cooled down a bit now so the story can continue: The proprietor of my house boat finally got the internet … Continue Reading →


04 Srinagar featured

Secrets of Srinagar

Let’s not pretend I found out anything particularly abstruse in my few day’s sojourn here in the North but there is no doubt that a little bit of extra effort … Continue Reading →


03 Dachigam featured

The leopards of Dachigam

After my second mountain excursion I transferred to one of the celebrated Dal lake houseboats back in Srinagar. Mine was the Golden Palace, the “vacant” sign on its balcony attesting … Continue Reading →


02 Pahalgam featured

Exploring Pahalgam in the Vale of Kashmir

The trip to Gulmarg was completed with a cable car excursion up to the snow line. Known as the Gondola, this popular tourist destination takes Indian visitors from the plains … Continue Reading →


01 Gulmarg featured

Greetings from Kashmir

Here I am sitting on my balcony looking out at the snow-capped peaks of the Panjal Mountain range*, listening to distant horse bells and the cries of the pony wallahs, … Continue Reading →


01 arrival featured

Escaping the Election

Yes. I’ve just arrived back in India and there’s lots to tell. Just give me a moment for a cup of tea……. Here we are, staying over for one night … Continue Reading →